I started this kilt-inspired jeanskirt from the February 2007 issue of KnipMode magazine not really knowing how long it would take me to power through…
The description says it’s designed to conceal broad hips (which I haven’t got) but I didn’t translate that until after it was finished! I was just drawn to the style of it, since I don’t think I’ve ever seen another pattern or RTW skirt anything like it. It’s an easy skirt with two different half-pleated areas, and two buttoned bands as a fastener on the waistband. I really like that this is a faux-wrap skirt – the front is just very wide and folds over itself to create a partial pleat, meaning the wind can’t steal my modesty as I walk across Tower Bridge on my way to work! I also really like the sporran-esque hip pocket, though I’m not entirely sure if that’s what was intended, as I can’t read Dutch and I was just inferring a lot from the technical drawing and the pattern pieces.
My problems had nothing to do with the pattern, and everything to do with my machine and denim topstitching. If I even so much as looked at four layers, the underside became a mass of thread snarls, and I knew it was threaded and cleaned properly! I eventually consulted the forums at Pattern Review and finally got a working solution.
So, in case you end up with underside snarls on denim like mine, here are some tips:
- Use Gutterman “extra strong” (sometimes called “upholstery”, it’s in the grey spool) and NOT “topstitching” thread, which is too thick for most machines.
- Only use the “extra strong” thread in the top – use regular thread in the bobbin
- Switch to an even thicker denim needle than the standard 80/12s
- Increase your top tension a bit
- Light some incense by your sewing machine and consider making a denim shrine