I downloaded this jacket pattern by designer Yohji Yamamoto a few years ago, but I never really got any further than that until I discovered a late-open Kinkos in central London that could large-format print the free pdf for me (because, frankly, I have better things to do with my time than print and tape together 54 sheets of A4 paper!). With the pattern in hand, it was only a matter of days before this jacket was keeping me warm.
This jacket is such an interesting design – it only has two pattern pieces, and can be worn two different ways. I’m actually not sure which way I prefer it, so I’ll let you all decide (leave a comment telling me which view you prefer!).
I made it with some heavyweight salt & pepper wool (originally from Walthamstow Market, and had been used to make this jacket in a former life) and I decided to line it with some emerald raw silk (leftover from a top I made for her of the Princess Dress a few years back). The pattern didn’t call for a lining, so I just duplicated the arms/back pattern piece, sewed the outer and lining arms and darts independently, then basted the outer and lining together along the outer edge.
The construction was pretty straightforward once you can visualise how the two pieces fit together. I found it really helpful to tape together the paper pattern pieces first, and using different coloured tailor tacks for all the various alignment markings also helped immensely. This isn’t a pattern for beginners (since there are no instructions – I found this diagram helpful, though), and this isn’t a pattern for the fashion-phobic, either. I’d only recommend sewing this to others if you like the end result photos from myself and others and are not a shy dresser! This is a designer “statement” and you will get noticed.
Myself, I’m really warming to this jacket and I enjoy being able to choose which way I want to wear it in the morning (View B looks particularly good with a big brooch on one of the collar flaps).