I downloaded this jacket pattern by designer Yohji Yamamoto a few years ago, but I never really got any further than that until I discovered a late-open Kinkos in central London that could large-format print the free pdf for me (because, frankly, I have better things to do with my time than print and tape together 54 sheets of A4 paper!). With the pattern in hand, it was only a matter of days before this jacket was keeping me warm.
This jacket is such an interesting design – it only has two pattern pieces, and can be worn two different ways. I’m actually not sure which way I prefer it, so I’ll let you all decide (leave a comment telling me which view you prefer!).
View A:
View B:
I made it with some heavyweight salt & pepper wool (originally from Walthamstow Market, and had been used to make this jacket in a former life) and I decided to line it with some emerald raw silk (leftover from a top I made for her of the Princess Dress a few years back). The pattern didn’t call for a lining, so I just duplicated the arms/back pattern piece, sewed the outer and lining arms and darts independently, then basted the outer and lining together along the outer edge.
Lining:
The construction was pretty straightforward once you can visualise how the two pieces fit together. I found it really helpful to tape together the paper pattern pieces first, and using different coloured tailor tacks for all the various alignment markings also helped immensely. This isn’t a pattern for beginners (since there are no instructions – I found this diagram helpful, though), and this isn’t a pattern for the fashion-phobic, either. I’d only recommend sewing this to others if you like the end result photos from myself and others and are not a shy dresser! This is a designer “statement” and you will get noticed.
Myself, I’m really warming to this jacket and I enjoy being able to choose which way I want to wear it in the morning (View B looks particularly good with a big brooch on one of the collar flaps).