Hot on the heels of last month’s (frankly, prettty poor) edition, we’ve got a new one to cleanse the palate! And even better – it’s really, really good! So let’s not delay any longer…
Burda have done a lot of wrap blouses over the years, but I really like the angular side panels on this one – in some of the variations they’ve used special pleated fabric on the sides, but personally I think the subtle fabric difference works better.
Hoo boy. Let’s start with the jacket – it’s a nice one with a cinched, gathered waist, nicely usable pockets, too. But the skirt – this one has been lighting up the internet already because of its extreme similarity to a pattern by the Spanish courtier and designer Paco, who is understandably incensed. He released this pattern several years ago and it’s been made and loved by several prominent sewing bloggers over the years. I suppose it’s possible that Burda saw this as a runway trend for FW15/16 and copied that, but I’ve not really seen this apron skirt elsewhere so it seems pretty shady…
And speak of the devil, here’s the longer version of the jacket above. I think Burda have done really well here in pairing it with a dress – it’d be a perfect transitional coat made up in a tweed or lighter coating (anything heavier would be unsuitable for those waist gathers).
The designer pattern this month is a gown by Marcel Ostertag, who was apparently a Central St Martin’s graduate who also appeared on a German fashion tv show. I personally really like the gown, especially with the different layers in the same colours of fabric with different textures. Though I’d leave off the weird waist tabs, which just seem to stick out on the model.
Mmmm, so cozy! This funnel-neck sweater has the colour illustrated instructions this month, and at first I couldn’t fathom why you’d need a zipper on a neckline that wide. Then it occurred to me that it’s probably not for getting it over your head, but instead so that you could unzip it and fold the neck down to make a cool asymmetric collar – and then I liked it even more!
This is the petite design this month, made up in both ponte and wovens in the examples. The most striking design detail here are those raglan shoulder bands (that oddly don’t carry around to the back), but the side seams are also angled so that you get some nice diagonal walking slits in the front. I’m really surprised that Burda don’t offer this one in a top length, because that’s precisely what I’d do (and frankly, I bet it’d be quite good for winter running, too!).
I’m not so sure about the quilted, puffa-ness of the fabric, but this coat has a classic 1950s silhouette.
This is the standout pattern of this issue for me, however. I love sheath dresses anyway, and I love cowl necks, and I love a good bit of back interest. I also really like that this is designed for fabrics with a bit of body so the cowl stands up on its own, making it more of a partial funnel-neck than a drapey cowl. Oh, and this one has the illustrated instructions for this issue, too, so it’s much easier to sew.
And now onto the Plus patterns! Burda have really been on a roll with their Plus designs over the past few months, but this issue is just spectacular. Take this surplice dress – how flattering is this?! You could make up the bodice in a different fabric from the skirt, pair it with a jacket and bam! instant office chic.
The blouse on the left is nice enough but omg that gown! It’s also shown in a shorter length if you’re not into maxis, but… let me pick my jaw up off the floor and point out the features! It’s a great dress with a) long, two part sleeves, b) French darts, c) v-neck, d) curved side seams coming around to the front hem (not dissimilar to the Petite dress above), e) deep v-neck in the back, and…. (drumroll?) f) a special horizontal band across the back so you can wear a bra with it! Bravo, Burda! This is a beautiful piece of drafting and design!
I think I need a bit of a lie down now to calm myself after this issue, I’m getting overstimulated! I’ve still got three magazines from Argentina to scan and show to you, plus I received the latest Manequim yesterday, too, and there’s some corkers in that! I’d best get thinking about my FW15/16 To Sew List then…
What about you – what are you sewing for Fall? And will you be sewing up Paco’s skirt pattern in solidarity (he has a specially-drafted Plus version as well, I might add)?