Sometimes my sewing starts with a fabric. Other times it starts with a specific pattern. But this time it started with a wardrobe need – after 6 months of Long Covid spent almost entirely in bed, I have very few trousers that still fit me and I desperately needed more.
Since the Seamwork Moji trousers I made back in 2020 are one of the few that do still fit, I pulled that out again to make another pair rather than have to print, adjust, and tweak a whole new size or pattern.
When I I originally made this pattern I made heavy modifications to this pattern, so definitely read that post if you like this style because there’s easier shortcuts available now!
The only thing I don’t like about the previous pair is that the CB rise is still far to low and they give me “plumber butt” that I’m constantly hoiking up. So before I cut these out I added 7cm to the CB to stop the “plumber butt”, and also added 3cm length to the hem.
I used 1.5m Midnight Blue organic Italian cotton gabardine from New Craft House (£14/m) and it’s a really lovely, crisp trouser weight fabric.
I also bought matching midnight blue cuffing/ribbing, a gunmetal toggle (the other in the pair bought for my Gemma waffle top), and elastic cord (ditto), all also from New Craft House.
For the pocket linings I used leftover fabric my mom picked out for pyjama bottoms I sewed for her in 2021 (which I can’t find a blog post for?), with black cats & bats, originally from Like Sew Amazing (RIP).
These are a pretty simple pattern to sew and I’ve already made them before so the construction was very straightforward. The only change on this pair was to press & topstitch seam allowances to one side instead of flat so that the seams are stronger (I had to mend a few seams on my other pair).
I also sewed the seams around the waist, hips, and thighs with a smaller seam allowance than the 1.5cm (5/8in) included in order to give myself a bit of extra wiggle room juuuuuust in case.
I love the hidden elastic waistband and how chic the cord and toggle look here! Definitely an upgrade on the long shoelace I used in the first pair!
These should really help to get me through until I’ve recovered from Long Covid and can get back to the size I was before I got sick, fingers crossed…
The tee seen here is another new make, which you’ll see very shortly!